Open safety recalls, the components owners report failing most often, crash-test results and running costs for the 2012 Mazda MAZDASPEED3 — assembled from NHTSA and EPA records.
Everything on this page applies to the model as a whole. Run its 17-character VIN to decode that exact car — its engine, trim, assembly plant and factory equipment — alongside these records. Free, no account.
Run a VIN →Recalls and complaints are filed against a specific model year, so figures differ from one year to the next even within a single generation. See every Mazda MAZDASPEED3 year.
No EPA fuel-economy match for this model (naming may differ or it predates EPA records).
NHTSA lists 1 recall for this make/model/year. Recalls apply to the model, so some may already be fixed on this specific car — check with a dealer using the VIN.
Issue: Mazda North American Operations (Mazda) is recalling certain model year 2010-2013 Mazda3 and Mazdaspeed3 vehicles manufactured November 18, 2008, to June 8, 2013, 2012-2015 Mazda5 vehicles manufactured October 26, 2010, to June 22, 2015, 2016 CX-3 vehicles manufactured June 1, 2015, to December 26, 2015, and 2013-2016 CX-5 vehicles manufactured December 15, 2011, to December 26, 2015. On the affected vehicles, the lift gate support struts may corrode, possibly causing the struts to break and/or the lift gate to drop unexpectedly.
Risk: If the lift gate falls unexpectedly, it may hit the user, increasing their risk of injury.
Remedy: Mazda dealers will replace the both lift gate supports, free of charge, however parts are not currently available. The recall began April 2017. Owners may contact Mazda customer service at 1-800-222-5500. Mazda's number for this recall is 9916H.
Campaign 16V644000
NHTSA has no NCAP crash-test rating for this model/year (common for older, low-volume, or heavy-duty vehicles).
The parts named most often across 6 owner complaintsfiled with NHTSA for this make, model and year — the closest free answer to “what is likely to go wrong?”
1 crash
Complaints are self-reported and skew toward problems people find alarming, so treat this as where to look, not a defect rate.
WHILE DRIVING, SPECIFICALLY WHILE SLOWING DOWN ON AN EXIT RAMP FROM THE HIGHWAY, THE SEAT MADE A LOUD POPPING NOISE AND MY SEAT BEGAN TO MOVE BACK AND FORTH FREELY UNDER ACCELERATION AND BRAKING. UPON FURTHER INSPECTION, I FOUND THAT THE METAL CONNECTOR BETWEEN THE SEAT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT AND THE SEAT RAIL HAD SNAPPED. THE VEHICLE HAS 68,XXX MILES ON IT AND THIS IS AN UNACCEPTABLE FAILURE FOR THE AMOUNT OF MILES. HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO FEEL SAFE IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT IF THE SEAT CANNOT STAY SECURELY CONNECTED TO THE CAR THROUGH NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS?
HEADLIGHTS VOLUNTARILY AND UNCONTROLLABLY FLICKERING DURING ROUTINE DRIVING STRAIGHTAWAYS, TURNING, OR ENCOUNTERING BUMPY ROAD. ISSUE ARISES AT VARYING RATES OF SPEED. HAD VEHICLE SINCE 2012 AND NEVER HAD ISSUE. END OF NOV. 2016, TOOK CAR IN FOR 60,000 CHECK-UP. DEALERSHIP INSTALLED NEW BATTERY. ISSUE BEGAN SHORTLY THEREAFTER. DEFINITE SAFETY ISSUE AND CONCERN. WHILE DRIVING BEHIND ANOTHER VEHICLE ONE EVENING, MY VEHICLE LIGHTS FLICKERED AND PROMPTED THE DRIVER AHEAD OF ME TO MOVE INTO ANOTHER LANE. IT GAVE THEM THE IMPRESSION THAT I WAS FLASHING LIGHTS TO ENCOURAGE THEM TO MOVE. THIS ISSUE CAN RESULT IN POTENTIAL CLAIMS OF "ROAD RAGE" AND LOSS OF LIFE. *TR
END OF 2013, THE VEHICLE BEGAN RANDOMLY POPPING OUT OF 2ND GEAR AND BACK INTO NEUTRAL. DEALER REBUILT TRANS UNDER WARRANTY AND ALL WAS OKAY UNTIL OCTOBER 2014 WHEN THE SAME ISSUE BEGAN AGAIN. DEALER REPLACED TRANS UNDER WARRANTY BUT ADVISED TRANSMISSION WARRANTY WAS NO LONGER VALID. CURRENTLY, JULY 2015, THE SAME ISSUE IS HAPPENING AGAIN. VEHICLE WILL BE IN GEAR THEN OUT OF GEAR CAUSING ME TO BE UNABLE TO ACCELERATE, AND CAUSING A MAJOR ACCIDENT RISK.
DRIVER ATTEMPTED AN EMERGENCY BRAKING EVENT. BRAKE PEDAL FAILED TO MAINTAIN FORM-BENT UNDER MODERATE PRESSURE, ALLOWING BRAKE PEDAL COVER TO FALL OFF RESULTING IN DRIVER'S FOOT TO LOSE CONTACT WITH BRAKE PEDAL. DRIVER LOST CONTROL OF BRAKES AND RESULTED IN A COLLISION. *TR
WENT TO SHIFT FROM 3RD TO 4TH, AND THE KNOB FELL INTO TWO PIECES WHILE DRIVING. *TR
RECENTLY PURCHASED A BRAND NEW 2012 MAZDA SPEED3. 17 MILES OFF THE LOT. IN THE 4 MILE DRIVE TO MY HOUSE 15 MINUTES AFTER SIGNING PAPERWORK, THE CLUTCH BLOWS OUT. HAD IT TOWED BACK AND WAS TOLD WE WERE LUCKY THEY FIXED IT UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE THIS ITEM IS A "WEAR & TEAR" ITEM BECAUSE GOING 4 MILES IS APPARENTLY TOO LONG. WE WERE TOLD TO "BREAK THE CLUTCH IN" FOR ABOUT 400 MILES. WELL, WE MADE IT TO 125 MILES ON THE ODOMETER AND THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENED. EXCEPT THIS TIME, I WAS DRIVING ABOUT 40MPH ON A BUSY ROAD WHEN THE CLUTCH WENT OUT. LUCKILY MY THREE YOUNG CHILDREN WERE NOT IN THE CAR. THERE IS NO POSSIBLE WAY IN OWNING A VEHICLE FOR A MERE 2.5 DAYS IN OUR HANDS WE HAVE BLOWN TWO CLUTCHES OR THE VEHICLE HAVE ANY WEAR OR TEAR. NOW THEY WANT OUR MONEY TO FIX A CAR I HAVE HAD FOR 2.5 DAYS. THIS IS A LOAD OF CRAP ON MAZDAS PART AND THEY NEED TO FIX THIS NOT ONLY ON MY VEHICLE BUT WHATEVER OTHER ONES ARE OUT THERE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. *TR